MOTION TO PAVE THE WAY FOR A CIRCULAR ECONOMY IN THE TEXTILE SECTOR

Today, around 60,000 tonnes of used clothing are collected in Switzerland every year, while an estimated 40,000 tonnes more end up as waste. The existing system is primarily based on the collection and resale of second-hand goods. However, increasing quantities and declining material quality - due to mixed fabrics and fast fashion, for example - are increasingly pushing this model to its limits. More and more textiles can neither be resold economically nor recycled to a high standard, which is also ecologically problematic.

"The current system of used clothing recycling is reaching its limits and is not sustainable. With this motion, we want to create the conditions for textile materials to be systematically returned to the cycle in future," says Regine Sauter, National Councillor (FDP/ZH). An industry solution would make it possible to utilise textile materials as raw materials in a more targeted manner, drive innovation in recycling and build up new added value and technological expertise in Switzerland. The motion submitted by National Councillor Regine Sauter in the spring session was co-signed by members of the Council from all parliamentary groups.

Industry wants to take responsibility

The Swiss textile industry is already working on developing a solution. With the industry organisation Fabric Loop, companies along the value chain are developing a system for the collection, sorting and high-quality recycling of textiles. "A functioning circular economy for textiles requires industry expertise. The textile industry has this expertise - from material development to recycling. However, for such a solution to be implemented, a clear legal framework is needed," says Nina Bachmann, Member of the Executive Board of Swiss Textiles.

Fair competition for all suppliers

A functioning closed-loop system can only be created if all market participants are involved. Around 30 per cent of textiles sold in Switzerland come from international online platforms such as Zalando, Temu or Shein. "A closed-loop system can only work if all producers are involved. Without clear rules, there is a risk that Swiss companies in particular will be responsible for setting up and financing the system, while international suppliers are not involved. That's why we need framework conditions that create a level playing field for everyone," says Simone Alabor, Managing Director of Fabric Loop.

Collecting organisations warn of collapse

Collecting organisations are also observing that the existing system is reaching its limits. "In some cases, we can barely keep up with collecting and recycling. Volumes are increasing, while a growing proportion of textiles are barely marketable," says Sascha Sardella, Operations Manager at Tell-Tex. Without structural adjustments, the current collection system threatens to collapse in the medium term. An industry-based solution could help to establish new recycling channels and stabilise the system in the long term.

The industry solution should be developed gradually and, in the long term, help to utilise textiles more as raw materials for new products. Without such solutions, Switzerland risks falling behind the EU in terms of technology and innovation in the field of textile recycling.